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Welcome to the Winemakers For Good Wood video library. We went to leading winemakers, looking for insight into their winemaking and barrel programs. And we came armed with a video camera. The result is a vast library of videos on topics ranging from toast levels and yeast selection to barrels for specific terroirs and flavor profiles. Take an inside peek at the process behind winemaking. To see the video for a specific winemaker, click the link below:

SEARCH BY WINEMAKER:

RICHARD ARROWOOD, STEPHAN ASSEO, ERICH BRADLEY,
Jeff Cohn
, JAMES HALL,
CLAY MAURITSON, SHAUNA ROSENBLUM, CHRISTIAN TIEtJE

SEARCH BY SUBJECT:

WINEMAKING PROCESS, VINEYARD PRACTICES,
BARREL SELECTION, COOPER VIDEOS

 


WINEMAKER FOR GOOD WOOD: CLAY MAURITSON OF MAURITSON FAMILY WINERY

Six generations of knowledge—and more than 140 years of grape growing heritage come in handy for Clay Mauritson, winemaker at Mauritson Family Winery. For years, his family sold Dry Creek Valley fruit to local wineries and still currently manages 310 acres of vineyards, including 34 in the Rockpile Appellation. But when it comes to winemaking, he’s pioneering. In the mid 1990s, Clay returned home from college (where he also played linebacker and went to the Rose Bowl) to the vineyards he planted and picked as a teenager. After stints at local wineries, it was time to take the family fruit and make wine. Awesome wine, to be exact.

Beyond cars: Clay Mauritson talks hybrids in the winemaking world

Clay Mauritson, doesn’t play favorites when it comes to French and American oak. He and his winemaking team love using a hybrid barrel—in this case, American oak body, French oak heads—which he finds gives an instantaneous integration of both flavor profiles in a harmonious fashion. He appreciates the two for their differences but doesn’t consider one to be superior to the other. “They’re different species, different grain widths, and grow in different climates,” he says. And while he likes each for their distinct flavor characteristics, he’s found they are best together.

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Clay Mauritson discusses what separates the Rockpile AVA from other appellations

Clay Mauritson marvels at the numerous incredible attributes of the Rockpile AVA. Rockpile's hillsides provide excellent sun exposure and slopes, while the soil diversity (17 different types of loam soils as well as volcanic soils), makes the grapes work harder. Clay finds the moderate temperatures a huge boon –generally during the day, the region is five to seven degrees cooler than Dry Creek Valley but in the evening it is five to seven degrees warmer. It's all about the moderating influence of water. The Pacific Ocean is 12 miles away, and horseshoe-shaped Lake Sonoma surrounds Rockpile on three sides, keeping the climate level and free of fog. All of these combined conditions make for what Clays calls "absolutely the perfect pedigree for growing grapes."

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What the family history means to Clay Mauritson's winemaking

Winemaker Clay Mauritson has family roots that go back more than 140 years in the Dry Creek Valley. Clay subscribes to the belief that wine is made in the vineyard, and he’s all about the various vineyards he works with. He has access not only to the Mauritson family’s vineyards (300 acres in northern Dry Creek Valley!), but also sources fruit from surrounding growers. He takes pride in the fact that they are able to purchase fruit from the best farmers in the valley—from neighbors and family friends who have the “perfect” land.

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To Toast Or Not To Toast

There's nary an untoasted barrel head in the Mauritson Family Winery cellar. Across the board (with few exceptions), winemaker Clay Mauritson prefers having their barrel heads toasted, as he looks to the barrels for toast flavor profiles, rather than for increasing tannin. He finds the tannins from American oak (which goes into his hybrid barrels) a bit rougher and more astringent than those of French oak. With naturally strong tannins from the vineyards' fruit, he's not looking to add more to the wines. Even for the French heads, which tend to have more of an elegant, front-palate tannin, Clay goes with the toast.

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High quality fruit, high quality barrels

Everything winemaker Clay Mauritson does at Mauritson Family Winery in Dry Creek Valley is 100% quality driven. This philosophy extends across the board—from vineyards in the Rockpile appellation to the winery's cellar and barrel program. He looks to a mix of coopers, getting a mix of different wood sourcing and also toast levels, all while demanding the "absolute best barrels" for the "absolute best fruit."

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Pairing Dry Creek wine and ESPN?
Former college football player turned winemaker at Mauritson Family Wines, Clay ruefully admits that he falls in with the old winemaking adage: "It takes a lot of beer to make good wine." Though, now that it's later in the season and harvest is over, he's a huge fan of Sauvignon Blanc while cooking and watching the games.

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Exploring the rockpile ava
The Rockpile AVA is a double-edged sword for Mauritson Family Winery. The tiny appellation, at 180 acres of planted vines (some 15,400 acres total), doesn't have the consumer awareness that say, Napa Valley, Sonoma County, or even Paso Robles has. And of that 180 acres, the family owns and farms more than half of the fruit planted on property they've had for generations. "Stylistically, there's nothing like Rockpile," winemaker Clay Mauritson says.

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WINEMAKER FOR GOOD WOOD: Richard Arrowood of Amapola Creek Vineyards & winery

Richard Arrowood has been making wine for more than 40 years. And he’s been getting better every year. From Korbel to Arrowood Vineyards & Winery, Sonoma Valley has been his home. But he didn’t stop there. Amapola Creek Vineyards & Winery was born from the vineyards on Richard’s ranch, tucked at the edge of Monte Rosso. Since then, Amapola Creek has become known for their outstanding Syrahs, Zins, and of course, Cabs. It’s a labor of love for Richard, proving once you're a winemaker, you're always a winemaker.

Richard Arrowood on barrel flavors

Richard Arrowood’s barrel program at Amapola Creek is about 85-90% is French oak and a remainder of American oak, designed to play a background role to the fruit. He likes the wood as a nuance, supplementing the fruit's aromatics, and eventually adding to the bouquet during bottle aging.

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Veteran Richard Arrowood gives some advice to young Richard Arrowood.

When you've been making wine for 45 odd years, we imagine you would have learned a thing or two. But would you do it all over again just the same? Richard considers what he would tell the younger version of himself if he could go back in time and offer advice. "Find another line of work," he jokes. But really, the only thing he would change is to take himself a less seriously, back off a little more and to forget about the little things. "Worry about the big stuff," he says.

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It’s not all new. Richard Arrowood talks about his barrel program.

Richard Arrowood tells us about the breakdown of new oak in his barrel program. For most of his Cabernet Sauvignon, he uses about 45 to 50% new wood. The remaining 50% is split between barrels already used for one year and barrels used two years. Once they've been used twice, he might use them for press fractions (or planters) but that's it.

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richard arrowood on organically-farmed grapes

Organically-farmed grapes were a natural progression for Richard Arrowood, once he had a little convincing. It took a little while for Phil Coturri, Vineyard Manager at Amapola Creek Vineyards & Winery, to drag Richard "kicking and screaming" to organically-grown fruit, but he more than gets it now. Richard believes that the soils and vines are more alive in an organic vineyard, which elevates the quality of the grapes. And most importantly, he finds it elevates the taste of the wine, with flavor profiles that are "darn good."

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An overview of Richard Arrowood’s winemaking practices

In the cellar, Richard Arrowood and the winemaking team keep it minimalist. Richard says if you were to look at the fruit after being pressed, it would look like little blueberries -- they keep the berries somewhat intact and end up with a fair amount of carbonic maceration and intercellular fermentation. He's thinking about the big picture—his wines aging some 15-30 years down the road. And he's trying to make sure the fruit in the wine will last as the aromatics diminish and the bouquet increases. He doesn't filter or fine his red wines, but will for his 2010 Chardonnay (a first for the winery). The reds filter more naturally, when the barrels are racked periodically during their 24-26 months of aging.

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WINEMAKER FOR GOOD WOOD: shauna Rosenblum of Rock Wall Wine Company

Rock Wall’s rock star winemaker, Shauna Rosenblum, comes from winemaking royalty. And now she’s using that experience and calling the shots: working with vineyards, managing her barrel program and keeping her tasting room rocking, all in a reclaimed military airplane hangar in Alameda (with awesome views of San Francisco). Shauna uses her contacts from a lifetime in winemaking to get fruit from the best vineyards for her wines at Rock Wall Winery. This quality harvest goes in oak barrels from the best cooperages in France. Because when you’ve been making wine your entire life, you get damn good at it.

Imagine making wine without oak barrels

"Shauna Rosenblum, winemaker at Rock Wall Wines, can't really imagine the world without wine barrels. She goes back to one of her early memories—up at her family's vineyard—sitting around the campfire with her father, Kent. As both dad and ground-breaking winemaker, Kent would teach Shauna how to identify the flavors in her S'more as it related to the smells in wine. He would have her isolate the aromas of toasted graham cracker, toasted marshmallow and chocolate-- the same flavors barrel can bring to wines. "If you don't have barrels, you have great fruit, and that's exciting," Shauna says. "But—it's so important to layer. And if you don't have wood in your wine, it's kind of... lackluster."

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Shauna Rosenblum makes an unusual sparkler in oak

Following her instinct to experiment, Shauna wasn't sure she wanted to make a red Grenache out of the great fruit she brought in from Manteca, California. So, she pressed the grapes and let them sit overnight. In the morning, the Grenache was a bright hot pink color, and Shauna decided she was going to make it a sparkling rosé. Fermented in oak. She took it off the master lees and put the wine into a Muid'Oc barrel (320L). She let it ferment down to 1.5 Brix and then hand bottled the soon-to-be bubbly. It's a spicy sparkling, she says, with "a backbone."

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How do oak barrels hold up to high-alcohol wines?

"Most of our wines are big, fruity wines high in alcohol," says Shauna. So, in the winemaking process, she uses yeasts that can handle the higher alcohol levels and barrels that are nuanced to hold up to the strength of the wine. She finds some barrels don't hold up, whether due to the polyphenols or the alcohol content, and show neutral flavor profiles after a few years. Not what she's looking for. She looks for barrels that give her great flavor year after year.

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A winery is like an artistic community: Shauna Rosenblum explains her how her background in arts influences her winemaking.

Shauna Rosenblum explains how her background in fine arts affects the way she approaches making wine. With a bachelor's degree in ceramics and a master's in sculpture, she's got experience in blending one thing with something else to create a new product. Shauna describes ceramics as being where science and art meet in the art world, and wine as where science and art meet in the science world. In both realms, she thinks it's all about having fun and experimenting, and all the better if it results in a cool wine blend.

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Puncheons: Shauna says it’s all about the “punch”

Shauna talks about using puncheon barrels in her wine program. She uses this 500 liter barrel for Chardonnay, Tannat, Cabernet and Zinfandel. It's all about the amount of specific flavor the barrels provide for her wines -- Shauna says it's a certain cappuccino/mocha quality with an extra pungency. She describes sampling her Tannat out of barrel as "a phenomenological experience."

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Matching barrels to vineyards

She discusses her approach to selecting barrels for the many different terroirs she works with (29 different vineyards!). For Shauna, it's all about layering. She uses different yeasts on different lots, though RP15 is her favorite, particularly when paired with the Muid'Oc puncheon. Shauna counts on her barrels to be consistent in her winemaking process and bring out the flavor profiles she expects from each vineyard, from Monte Rosso in Sonoma to spots in the Santa Lucia Highlands.

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WINEMAKER FOR GOOD WOOD: Jeff Cohn of JC Cellars

The new wine country isn’t country at all. For Jeff Cohn and his winery, JC Cellars, it’s pavement, parallel parking and really close neighbors in Oakland, California. Jeff’s location only enforces his winemaking philosophy: follow your instincts wherever they lead. Great fruit, carefully selected yeasts for fermentation and the best oak barrels make Jeff’s wine the perfect balance of taste, mouthfeel and aroma. With some of the best California wine being made in oak barrels in a warehouse in Oakland, there’s finally a good reason to call it “Oak-town.”

Yeast and barrel selection

Jeff Cohn discusses yeast and barrel selection. With red wines, he uses particular yeast strains to highlight certain flavor profiles—determining the interaction he wants between the fermenting fruit and the oak barrels. With white wines, it's more micro-scale. There he adds yeast on a per-barrel basis, depending on the grapes and what the wood will give to the wine.

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tradition in barrel selection

Jeff Cohn, though a bit of a renegade when it comes to oak barrels, does consider tradition when matching barrels to his wines. He believes in using Burgundy barrels for his Rhone varieties and feels the shape of the Burgundy barrels gives an elegance and finesse to the wine.

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Jeff Cohn’s favorite barrel flavors

Jeff is like a kid in a candy store, answering the question, “What are some of your favorite flavors that oak brings to the wine?” Without hesitation, he’s off and running with CHOCOLATE, and then listing all type—dark, bittersweet, milk chocolate. Next to chocolate, Jeff likes smoke components in the barrels, as well as slight notes of bacon, which interact so well with the fruit. He does admit his flavor preferences change, depending on the wine he is making—but in general sticks to chocolate with his red wines and vanilla flavors with his whites.

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Choosing barrels for Rhônes and Zins
Jeff Cohn, winemaker at JC Cellars, owes his excitement towards wine to the nearest and dearest to his heart: Rhône varietals and Zinfandel. When it comes to choosing barrels for Zin and Rhône wines, Cohn notes it’s essential to start with a base, and then to build on the base by bringing out desired flavor profiles. He’s not a mainstream guy, and that goes for barrels too. This might include mixing in different woods (Russian, American, French) using different types of air-drying, varying toasting levels, and working with extra smoke and toast options. “I don’t want my Zin to just be a Zin, I don’t want my Syrah to just be a Syrah,” Cohn says. “I want them to be experiences.”

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The recipe for JC Cellars’ barrel program
Jeff Cohn of JC Cellars compares his barrel program to cooking. There are different herbs and spices that bring out certain flavors in the food, just as there are different elements from each barrel in his program that highlight various aspects of the wine. There are barrels in his program that are beautiful on their own. There are also barrels that are nice on their own, but when blended with the other barrels it brings out the best in them.

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WINEMAKER FOR GOOD WOOD: Christian Tietje OF Four vines winery

There are winemakers who follow the rules—and winemakers who don’t. And then there’s Four Vines Winery. Anarchy. Christian Tietje, Four Vines's founder and winemaker, set out to shake up the ho-hum world of wine with innovative blends and bold new ideas. It worked. And, like a good chef, Christian expects the best from all of the ingredients that make his wines so unique. He only trusts his wines to high-quality oak barrels that are toasted with his specific program in mind.Anything less wouldn’t be anarchy.

Winemaking and style at Four Vines Winery

Christian Tietje describes his winemaking style as outrageous.

He looks for the “funk” in wines while producing more alternative reds. He points out that while it’s important to work with good vineyards, a lot of what they do to take the wine to the next level happens in the winery. He talks about using various yeast strains, multiple fermentations and even nesto carbonic maceration to build the big components, while then choosing good wood to complement the winemaking techniques. Matching the wine to the right wood takes years of not only knowledge but also experience about what kinds of woods go well with certain wines. Tietje notes that working with the best wood and finding consistency in the wood are highly important factors in taking your wine to the next level.

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Winemaker Christian Tietje explains why they do things a little different.

“The Freak Show” winemaker for Four Vines Winery got his outlandish nickname from his alternative winemaking styles. He doesn’t follow the mainstream industry, but instead loves working with alternative reds and has turned to what he calls “funky artisan winemaking.” He considers Randall Grahm and Andre Ostertog idols and attempts to challenge the traditional winemaking practices in a similar fashion. Tietje cites Rhônes as a perfect example of having complexity and richness but also the funk and different flavor profiles that he likes in his wines.

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Christian Tietje on cooperages

Christian Tietje calls Seguin Moreau “the best of the best.” In the past, he has dealt with many coopers, but he’s pared down after not always seeing desired results. The consistency in the barrels from Seguin Moreau keeps him working with them. The cooperage has also been a “partner in crime,” working with Tietje to develop specific barrels for the outrageous projects he takes on.

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Why not use alternatives?

A big question about oak for wineries just starting out or on the smaller scale is: Why not use alternatives?

Christian explains why it is all about good oak barrels and the control they provide. The cost of barrels and working with a limited can make it difficult to give the public wines that they want for under $10. The use of alternatives comes in to play for winemakers producing good wines at the desired lower price points. Tietje notes that alternatives will work at this level but are not ideal for medium- to upper-end wines. He states, “If I am going to make the best wines I can make I am going to use the best barrels I can get.”

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The most important thing in oak

Drawing on his experience in the wine industry, Christian Tietje knows that the source of the wood is everything. In his time at Four Vines Winery, he says, once you’ve found what you’re looking for from the oak, consistency becomes the most important thing. He believes “sourcing for that consistency is the greatest chore the industry faces.” Finding a reliable cooper that has the ultimate quality you desire and also has every technical aspect from the aging potential all the way down to the toasting universe, is what is vital.

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Behind the scenes with Christian Tietje of Four Vines Winery

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WINEMAKER FOR GOOD WOOD: ERICH BRADLEY OF AUDELSSA ESTATES

It’s a good thing winemaker Erich Bradley isn’t afraid of heights. With 1200 vertical feet of west-facing mountain side vineyards, the conditions couldn’t be better for him and Audelssa Estate Winery to grow superb grapes. Erich approaches the unusual terroir like a geologist, noting each soil and elevation level for different qualities and characteristics. This attention to detail is not lost when Erich barrels his wine. Each barrel in his program is specifically chosen based on the area and elevation of the vineyard. After all, to make the great wines Erich is making, you really have to stay on top of things.

Audelssa’s vineyards—it’s all about the sun
Winemaker Erich Bradley says the biggest difference in Audelssa’s Cabernet vineyards from other vineyards is the sun exposure. The vineyards are both western- and southwestern-facing, which means they get the last sun rays at the end of the day. The thicker-skinned berries higher on the hill, where there is a lack of nutrients in the soil and no water table, need the extra sun. This stresses the vines and makes for a more concentrated wine. Bradley thinks this vineyard would also be successful if it were planted in other locations, such as Napa, Atlas Peak, or atop Howell Mountain, as long as the aspect and exposure were the same.

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WHY DO YOU USE SEGUIN MOREAU BARRELS?

Erich Bradley, winemaker at Audelssa, points out two main things. It’s about the consistency of the barrels and the role they have played in his previous winemaking history, and thus Seguin Moreau has always been a part of the Audelssa winemaking process.

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Erich Bradley discusses extreme terroir at Audelssa Estate Winery
Audelssa winemaker Erich Bradley discusses the extreme terroir of the vineyards and how it affects barrel selection. Of the 125 acres of property, only about 80 acres are planted. There’s difference of roughly 1200 vertical feet in elevation—with the lower vineyard at 600 feet, rising to the highest vineyard at 1,800 feet. This extreme difference gives the feeling of nearly 40 vineyards in one.

For Bradley, the biggest difference among the vineyards is soil composition. There is volcanic ash as well as basalt, essentially a form of lava. The different soils affect the acid levels in the harvested grapes, which in turn affects the wines and his winemaking process. Red soils like basalt show a lot more acidity where as the white soils, such as the volcanic ash, have less acidity and bits of potassium. And the different soil structure means careful barrel selection for each micro-terroir.

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ph levels in winemaking: erich bradley Discusses.
Audelssa winemaker Erich Bradley discusses how pH levels in their vineyards determine his winemaking style. He talks about the process of establishing his barrel program—factoring the pH levels of the wine in with the tightness of the grain and the toast of the barrel. Wines with higher pH levels require a tighter grain in the barrel, with moderate toasting. On wines with lower pH levels, he uses looser grain and higher toasts to ensure the desired flavor profiles. Also, with the higher pH wines, Bradley relies more on the barrel. He’s looking the wood to provide more oak tannin, as well as to develop structure and length throughout the wine. Lower pH wines have more perceptive tannic structure, and therefore don’t require as much oak tannins.

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WINEMAKER FOR GOOD WOOD: james hall of patz & hall

James Hall, founder and winemaker of Patz & Hall, makes it his business to do Pinot Noir and Chardonnay like no one else, and he has succeeded. Like a great mathematician, he tweaks the equation until he has perfected every step. It adds up to some fantastic wine.

Owning the wood supply: Why Patz & Hall buys and ages their wood years in advance
If you want proof that wood supply matters in wine, talk to James Hall. The winery buys their wood years in advance—while it is still in the forest. Hall believes that how a wood is seasoned is one the most important factors of oak. At Patz & Hall, they aim to create consistency in their barrels by having control over the seasoning. This includes being able to more accurately predict rainfall, which plays a key role in softening the barrel’s tannins. They control every aspect of their wood through the process. Hall recognizes that the cooper is the essential partner in constructing the barrel, and owning the wood gives him the opportunity to work more closely with the cooper in reaching the desired end result.

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Chardonnay in Oak Barrels
James considers Seguin Moreau barrels a perfect match for Patz & Hall’s Chardonnay. You would think that the limited oak forests in France would create many similarities in barrels across the board, but, coopers’ stylistic influences greatly affect the barrels’ end result. Seguin Moreau has barrels ideally styled for Chardonnay, which is a challenging feat. After years of research, Hall works with the barrels for “the delicacy, the precision of flavors, the extraction rate, they way they support the terroir. He calls them “pretty much flawless, hands down my favorite.”

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Burgundian Style: how barrels play a role in Patz & Hall’s winemaking
James Hall, winemaker at Patz & Hall, explains how oak fits into his winemaking. His award-winning Chardonnay is oak-fermented in the traditional Burgundian style. Hall is looking for a balanced interaction between the wine and the oak. He believes the oak shouldn’t dominate the wine but instead should play a subdued and supportive role in the fermentation process. For Hall, barrels act as the “basis on which to hang the terroir.”

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James Hall on the market for California Pinot & Chardonnay

James Hall of Patz & Hall Winery believes California truly lives up to the Robert Parker’s description of the “viticultural Eden.” He thinks what really sets apart California’s Chardonnay and Pinot Noir from that of France is the scale. In reality, Chardonnay and Pinot Noir only makes up about five percent of the wine coming from Burgundy. California can produce these wines at the same high quality level, but on a much bigger scale. Hall refutes the misconception that California wines should be like those of Burgundy, pointing to the differences in terroir, soils and climate. California wines tend to be riper and of course, fruitier, while also having minerality and acid levels that produce long-lived wines. In Hall’s mind, one of the greatest misconceptions about the wine is that “California Chardonnay is a simple coarse commercial product.”

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Pinot & Chard- What makes Patz & Hall unique?

James takes us through a brief history of their winemaking. When Patz & Hall started in 1988, they were only producing Chardonnay. Seven years later, in 1995, they began making Pinot Noir. To this day, Patz & Hall still only produces those two varieties. Patz & Hall also prides itself on its unique combination of single vineyards. They work with vineyards in widely diverse areas from Mendocino, Sonoma Coast, Russian River, Carneros and Monterey. They bottle between twelve and fifteen wines per year creating a set wine of wines that Hall believes cannot be replicated.

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WINEMAKER FOR GOOD WOOD: Stephan Asseo of L’Aventure

Stephan Asseo, L’Aventure Winery’s owner and winemaker, followed his wine passion down a trail that made him a pioneer. Tracking down the perfect vineyard location, living on his vineyards, working his vineyards everyday – all this has come from Stephan’s passion for making great wines. Passion that has led to one great wine affair.

Aquaflex barrels for white wine

Stephan Asseo, winemaker at L’Aventure Winery, evaluates his barrels based on the toast, the oak’s origins, and the density of the grain, with the goal of finding barrels that are “very respectful of the wine.” Especially with his white wine program, he notes that it’s challenging to work with new barrels, and that is where the AQUAFLEX barrel (shaped by immersion in hot water) has found a home. He uses the barrel for his Roussanne—which after eight months of aging, the wine showed complexity but still emphasized the characteristics of the varietal.

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Stephan Asseo has no interest in oak alternatives

Stephan Asseo says he has no interest in using oak alternatives. The wines he produces are above the $20 level, which gives him the opportunity to use the best at every step of the winemaking process, including barrel selection. Oak barrels play a large part in the production of the wines at L’Aventure and he feels lucky to be able to work with the real deal.

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Before you choose a barrel, you choose a cooper

Selecting a cooper is a key responsibility of Stephan Asseo, owner and winemaker at L’Aventure Winery. All steps of the winemaking process are important to the finished wine, but ultimately the barrel is going to be a big influence. Asseo has had a close relationship with Seguin Moreau for 28 years—first working with them in Bordeaux and now in Paso Robles, California. The range of selection and flexibility Seguin Moreau barrels have, as well as the cooperage’s attentiveness to what Asseo wants in his barrels, keeps that relationship strong.

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Stephan Asseo on his winemaking style

Stephan Asseo describes his winemaking style as very simple. After nearly 30 years of experience in viticulture and winemaking, he feels that the more he knows and learns, the more straightforward his style has become. In his winemaking, he aims to highlight the natural characteristics of the wine and terroir. In order to do so, Asseo selects barrels with specific qualities that “will help the wine to express itself.”

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Where does oak fit into Stephan Asseo’s winemaking style?

Stephan Asseo of L’Aventure Winery likes the role of oak in his winemaking to be very subdued. For him, the wine and the fruit are number one, and the barrel should only help increase the quality of wine, without overpowering its natural characteristics. To find a good balance between the wine and the barrel, Asseo looks at both the level of toast and tightness of the grain.

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WINEMAKER FOR GOOD WOOD: Douglas Rennie of Seguin Moreau

Douglas Rennie, a fourth-generation cooper from Glasgow, Scotland, has been with Seguin Moreau Napa Cooperage since before there was a cooperage. July 2011 marks his 20th anniversary with the company. For Rennie, coopering is about tradition and craft, doing things the same as they have been done for hundreds of years. He loves how the ancient trade has been kept, while integrating modern technology for the ease of process. "It's about tried and true methods. You follow the rules. Respect the wood," Rennie says.

HOW LONG DO YOU AGE THE WOOD FOR WINE BARRELS? WHY SO LONG?

In this set of videos from Coopers For Good Wood, Douglas Rennie of Seguin Moreau discusses why coopers age wood for at least two years before using it for a new oak wine barrel. The two-year aging or "seasoning" process brings moisture content down and ensures the wood is done shrinking, which allows the wood to bend rather than break when it is shaped over the fires. Finally, the seasoning process also allows for harsh tannins to be removed. The process contributes to the barrel's aromatics, as well as ensuring no leaky joints or staves.

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WHAT IS THE MOST IMPORTANT THING TO KNOW ABOUT OAK'S RELATIONSHIP WITH WINE?

SIn this edition of Coopers For Good Wood, Douglas Rennie of Seguin Moreau discusses the most important aspects of oak's influence on wine. Aside from good grapes, good wine needs "good barrels, which are toasted properly, and [where] the wood is seasoned properly." While barrels have played a similar role in winemaking for hundreds of years, now coopers have the ability to analyze wood and better understand the effects of moisture and toast on wine, as well as to determine specific barrels for each style of wine.

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HAUTE FUTAIE OAK AND WHAT THAT MEANS FOR WINE BARRELS

Continuing our special edition of Winemakers For Good Wood—Coopers For Good Wood— we bring you Douglas Rennie of Seguin Moreau. In this video he discusses Haute Futaie and what that means for wine barrels and wine.

Haute Futaie refers to oak that comes from superior growth forests managed by the French government.

As part of a government program to produce quality wood, the forest is maintained whereby lower brush is cleared and trees are spaced. This allows for good distribution of sunlight and enough room for the trees to grow straight and tall, ensuring tight, straight grain in the wood. This is also connected to a sustainable reforestation program Seguin Moreau is proud to be a part of—PEFC Certification and an exclusive partnership with the French National Forestry Commission.

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